Showing posts with label Garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Garden. Show all posts
The Dye Garden
Some easy to grow plants for dye.
• Yarrow (Achillea hybrids). The plant tops produce mostly yellow, tan and gold colors. It is a tough and hardy perennial in the garden and flowers from early summer to late fall.
• Marigolds (Tagetes spp. and hybrids). The flowers and leaves will produce a variety of colors, depending on the mordant, from bright yellow and gold to dark brown.
• Yellow cosmos (Cosmos surphureus). This annual flower blooms in yellow, orange, even red, including cultivars such as ‘Bright Lights’, ‘Diablo’ and ‘Sunny Red’. The flowers in a dye bath produce golden colors, oranges and rusty browns.
• Sunflower (Helianthus annuus). This common, cheerful flower is an annual that can tower to 4 or 6 feet by season’s end. It yields a array of soft green colors in the dye bath.
• Hibiscus (Hibiscus hybrids), also called rose mallow. Look for red-blooming varieties of this perennial shrub, and in the garden, give it about 2 feet of space on all sides. Harvest the flowers as they bloom, as they won’t last more than a day or so. The petals can yield many colors, from purple and green to gray, even black.
• Indigo (Indigofera suffruticosa, I. tinctoria). This perennial shrub thrives in warm climates, and elsewhere is an annual. The fresh leaves contain the classic blue pigment.
• Purple basil (Ocimum basilicum purple-leaved varieties such as ‘Dark Opal’, ‘Red Rubin’ and ‘Purple Ruffles’). Annual in most climates, purple basil can reach about 2 feet. Use fresh tops in a dye bath for a variety of greens and browns.
• Marjoram (Origanum majorana). Generally an annual, this oregano relative yields yellows, oranges, browns and grays, depending on the mordant used. It stays under 12 inches and is easy to grow.
• Weld (Reseda luteola). This biennial or annual is a traditional European dye herb, with flower stalks that can reach 3 feet or more. The leaves and flower stalks produce strong yellows and pale greens.
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.). This easy, popular perennial plant blooms summer to fall. The leaves and flowers produce golds, browns, oranges and dark greens.
• Goldenrod (Solidago spp.). This native perennial can reach 4 or 5 feet by season’s end, so give it some space. Plant stalks produce yellow and orange to tan, brown and rust colors.
• Zinnias (Zinnia elegans and other species). This easy annual bedding plant is available in both transplants and seeds. Harvest the flowers regularly to keep it blooming all summer. The flowers yield pale yellow colors.
Colors blended from Plants
BLACKS
Alder Bark
Ash Bark
Walnut Hulls
Bugleweed
BLUES
Indigo
Larkspur
Bayberry Berries
Blueberry Fruit
BROWNS
Apple Bark
Laurel Leaves
Maple
Tea Root
PURPLES
Cedar Root
Dandelion Root
Vine Plant Berries
Elderberry Fruit
REDS
Bedstraw
Cochineal
Pokeberry
Dogwood Root
YELLOWS
Broom Plant
Catnip Stalk
Onion Skins
Tomato Vine
GOLDS
Aster Plant
Cocklebur Plant
Dahlia Flower
Madder Root
GREENS
Ash - White
Cane Leaves
Solomon's Seal
Mistletoe Leaves
INFO
http://www.kidsgardening.com/growingideas/projects/may03/pg1.html
http://www.herbcompanion.com/gardening-plans/garden-spaces-grow-these-herbs-to-make-natural-dyes.aspx#ixzz1LUFwmGC0
• Yarrow (Achillea hybrids). The plant tops produce mostly yellow, tan and gold colors. It is a tough and hardy perennial in the garden and flowers from early summer to late fall.
• Marigolds (Tagetes spp. and hybrids). The flowers and leaves will produce a variety of colors, depending on the mordant, from bright yellow and gold to dark brown.
• Yellow cosmos (Cosmos surphureus). This annual flower blooms in yellow, orange, even red, including cultivars such as ‘Bright Lights’, ‘Diablo’ and ‘Sunny Red’. The flowers in a dye bath produce golden colors, oranges and rusty browns.
• Sunflower (Helianthus annuus). This common, cheerful flower is an annual that can tower to 4 or 6 feet by season’s end. It yields a array of soft green colors in the dye bath.
• Hibiscus (Hibiscus hybrids), also called rose mallow. Look for red-blooming varieties of this perennial shrub, and in the garden, give it about 2 feet of space on all sides. Harvest the flowers as they bloom, as they won’t last more than a day or so. The petals can yield many colors, from purple and green to gray, even black.
• Indigo (Indigofera suffruticosa, I. tinctoria). This perennial shrub thrives in warm climates, and elsewhere is an annual. The fresh leaves contain the classic blue pigment.
• Purple basil (Ocimum basilicum purple-leaved varieties such as ‘Dark Opal’, ‘Red Rubin’ and ‘Purple Ruffles’). Annual in most climates, purple basil can reach about 2 feet. Use fresh tops in a dye bath for a variety of greens and browns.
• Marjoram (Origanum majorana). Generally an annual, this oregano relative yields yellows, oranges, browns and grays, depending on the mordant used. It stays under 12 inches and is easy to grow.
• Weld (Reseda luteola). This biennial or annual is a traditional European dye herb, with flower stalks that can reach 3 feet or more. The leaves and flower stalks produce strong yellows and pale greens.
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.). This easy, popular perennial plant blooms summer to fall. The leaves and flowers produce golds, browns, oranges and dark greens.
• Goldenrod (Solidago spp.). This native perennial can reach 4 or 5 feet by season’s end, so give it some space. Plant stalks produce yellow and orange to tan, brown and rust colors.
• Zinnias (Zinnia elegans and other species). This easy annual bedding plant is available in both transplants and seeds. Harvest the flowers regularly to keep it blooming all summer. The flowers yield pale yellow colors.
Colors blended from Plants
BLACKS
Alder Bark
Ash Bark
Walnut Hulls
Bugleweed
BLUES
Indigo
Larkspur
Bayberry Berries
Blueberry Fruit
BROWNS
Apple Bark
Laurel Leaves
Maple
Tea Root
PURPLES
Cedar Root
Dandelion Root
Vine Plant Berries
Elderberry Fruit
REDS
Bedstraw
Cochineal
Pokeberry
Dogwood Root
YELLOWS
Broom Plant
Catnip Stalk
Onion Skins
Tomato Vine
GOLDS
Aster Plant
Cocklebur Plant
Dahlia Flower
Madder Root
GREENS
Ash - White
Cane Leaves
Solomon's Seal
Mistletoe Leaves
INFO
http://www.kidsgardening.com/growingideas/projects/may03/pg1.html
http://www.herbcompanion.com/gardening-plans/garden-spaces-grow-these-herbs-to-make-natural-dyes.aspx#ixzz1LUFwmGC0
Frisbee Bird Feeder
Bird feeder made from mainly recycled materials.
Approximate Time: 30 min - 1 hour
Supplies:
•2 bolts, washers, and nuts
1 empty grated cheese container
strong glue - like Goop
screw driver
2 Frisbees
drill
long needle nose tool
wire and "s" hook
Instructions:
I have two Chihuahuas and the last thing they would ever do is play with a Frisbee, so when we received two free ones I knew I had to come up with something. Here's what I did:
1.Drill holes in the center of the Frisbees top and bottom, also top and bottom of the container, the same size as the bolts you will be putting through.
2.Drill the bottom Frisbee with several holes for water drainage. Drill two small holes (across from each other) near the bottom of the container about 1/2 inch from the bottom. These holes should be about 1/3 inch wide.
3.Match up the container top to the underside of the top Frisbee and glue.
4.Put bolt through top and bottom set of holes, add washer and then the bolt, tighten. For top section have a loop of wire ready to wrap around the bolt before tightening. For the bottom use the needle nose to brace the bolt from inside the container while using the screw driver on the outside of the Frisbee.
5.Now it's ready to fill, turn the top Frisbee and the container cap should screw right off with it. Some bird seed may come out of the bottom feeding holes, but if the drainage holes are small the seed will stay in the Frisbee. Add your "s" hook and it's ready to hang.
Hope I have explained this well enough, if not let me know. I just set it out this morning so I haven't seen any birds yet, but once I do I am going to try to get some photos.
By NoRulesArt from Sunny FL
Winter in The Garden
Winter in the gardenCold Season Vegetables
Generally, cold season vegetables will survive sudden summer frosts, snows and cold.
Long-considered a delicacy in Europe, asparagus cultivation is becoming evermore popular. A "must" for edible landscapes. Scatter single plants throughout your garden, or place selectively for backdrops or borders. Provides delicate, lacy, summer foliage and fine, tender, tasty spears.
FROST TOLERANCE: Good.
CULTURE: Takes up to 10 weeks to germinate in cold soil. Plant in flats 8-10 weeks early, or when soil reaches 60· F. Transplant small plants into shallow trenches rich in compost. Hill as they grow. If using root crowns, fill bottom of 6" trench with compost; spread roots; bury 4". Compost heavily each year.
HARVEST and STORAGE: Carefully cut young shoots early spring, third year. Do not disturb root crowns. Store 2-3 weeks at 32-36· F., in humid environment.
INSECTS and DISEASES: Control asparagus beetles with pyrethrum. Asparagus rust (appears as reddish or black blisters on stems and foliage) is associated with very damp conditions. Remove all above-ground plant material to avoid disease. Diseased tops should be cut and burned.
REPRODUCTION: Asparagus produces both male and female plants. Late summer, female plants produce red berries that can be dried and saved as seed, or allowed to fall on ground to reseed. Propagate male plants by dividing root crowns in early spring or late fall. Male plants yield larger number of shoots for eating.
SPACING: rows 48"; plants in rows 9-15"; plants in beds 12"
SOIL PH: 6.0-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 24 PER OUNCE: 1200
FAVA BEAN (A) Vicia faba
We first discovered the delicious fava bean high in the mountains of Guatemala. No mountain garden should be without these frost-hardy jewels. Expect large, meaty, brown beans to eat fresh like tender, green lima beans, or store for hearty, mid-winter meals.
FROST TOLERANCE: Good.
CULTURE: Plant seeds in early spring as soon as ground can be worked. Companion plants include: potatoes, cucumbers, corn. Dislikes: onions and garlic.
INSECTS AND DISEASES: Control beetles with rotenone or pyrethrum. Blights, mosaic and mold can be minimized by watering deeply at base, keeping tops dry. Rotate in at least 3-year cycles.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Harvest for use as fresh beans, or allow to dry for winter storage. Store fresh 2 weeks at 35-40· F., in humid environment. Keep dry beans in cool, dry, place with air circulation.
SEED PRODUCTION: Fava or broad beans, unlike green beans, have showy flowers, often pollinated by bees. Separate different varieties 100 feet if some crossing is tolerable, 1000 yards if purity is desired.
SPACING: rows: 24"; plants in rows: 8"; plants in beds: 8"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER OUNCE: 20-25 POUND: 275-400
BEET (B) Beta vulgaris
FROST TOLERANCE: Tolerates moderate frosts. Expect slow growth until temperatures rise.
CULTURE: Cold-tolerant crop after germination. Avoid planting until soil reaches 60· F. Transplanting not recommended. Beets prefer deep, rich, well-composted soil, but tolerate average soil, if provided enough trace minerals and sun. For larger, more uniform roots, thin to 1 plant every 4". Companion plants include: onions.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: For steady supply of fresh, young greens, plant every 2-3 weeks. Store beets with greens still attached up to several weeks in cold, humid environment. Roots will last for several months in cold, dry sand or sawdust.
DISEASES: To minimize scab, provide rich, well-composted soil.
SEED PRODUCTION: Flowers contain both male and female parts, but do not self-pollinate before flowers open. As pollen is carried long distances by wind, grow seeds for only one variety at a time. Note: beets will cross with Swiss chard. Since beets are biennials, pull first-year roots before ground freezes. Store at 40· F., and replant best roots early next spring (18" spacing).
SPACING: rows 12-24"; plants in rows 4"; plants in beds 3-4"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 55 OUNCE: 2100
BROCCOLI (B) Brassica oleracea, var. botrytis
A wonderful vegetable that actually grows better in cooler climes and higher altitudes than in warmer lowlands!
FROST TOLERANCE: Mature plants survive temperatures as low as 10· F. Protect very young plants from frost.
CULTURE: Plant seeds in flats 4-7 weeks early, or after soil reaches 45· F. Demands soil high in nitrogen and phosphorus. To reach full size, space heading varieties at least 18". Water frequently and consistently throughout growing season, increasing amount of water when flowers appear. Stagger plantings of hybrid, heading varieties. Companion plants include: dill, chamomile, sage, peppermint, beets, onions. Dislikes: tomatoes.
INSECTS AND DISEASES: Cabbage worms can be controlled by Bacillus thuringiensis, if applied early and frequently. If root maggots become problem in extremely wet weather, carefully mix diatomaceous earth or wood ashes into soil, or protect soil from rain. Tar paper placed around base of plants deters flies that lay eggs which hatch into root maggots. Control aphids with pyrethrum. Disease is rare in higher and drier climes. Keep soil healthy. Rotate in at least 3-year cycles.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Harvest flower buds before they begin to open. To encourage continued production, harvest regularly when side shoots appear. Harvest hybrid, heading varieties (10-14 day field life) early. DeCicco and other sprouting varieties, left in ground until cooler fall days, come into an especially productive second season. Store fresh up to 2 weeks at near-freezing temperatures.
SEED PRODUCTION: Although broccoli flowers contain both female and male flowers, individual plants do not self-fertilize. Provide at least two or more flowering plants to assure seed formation. Since bees can cross-pollinate broccoli with other brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, kale and brussels sprouts), if purity is desired, isolation distances should be 1000 yards or more.
SPACING: rows 24"; plants in rows 12-24"; plants in beds 18"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 315
BRUSSELS SPROUT (B) Brassica oleracea var. gemnifera
Perfect for the mountain garden! Brussels sprouts become tastier after temperatures fall below freezing.
FROST TOLERANCE: Mature plants survive temperatures as low as 10· F. Protect very young plants from frost.
CULTURE: See Broccoli.
INSECTS AND DISEASES: See Broccoli.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Harvest bottom sprouts first. Leave some for winter when they will taste extra mild and buttery. (Remember to mark plants so they can be found in deep snow.) Store up to 4 weeks in near-freezing, humid environment.
SEED PRODUCTION: See Broccoli.
SPACING: rows 30"; plants in rows 18"; plants in beds 18"
SOIL PH: 6.0-6.7 SEEDS PER GRAM: 300
CABBAGE (B) Brassica oleracea var. capitata
FROST TOLERANCE: Protect young plants from frost, especially after transplanting. Mature plants can withstand temperatures as low as 10· F.
CULTURE: Plant seeds in flats 4-7 weeks early, or after soil reaches 50· F. Provide enough light to avoid long, thin stems that will restrict later growth. (Twenty watts of artificial light per-square foot is sufficient.) Cabbage is less demanding than either cauliflower or broccoli, but still benefits from nitrogen-rich, nutritious soil. Water heavily when heads begin to form. Stagger plantings of same variety every 2 weeks.
INSECTS AND DISEASES: Avoid top watering. Rotate in at least 3-year cycles. See Broccoli.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: We have had some success storing cabbage fresh in the garden by twisting the head until stem cracks. This procedure arrests further growth, but cabbage remains alive and fresh. Once harvested, store trimmed heads for months in near-freezing, humid environment. As field life of hybrids is limited, harvest hybrids as soon as ready.
SEED PRODUCTION: See Broccoli. Heads brought in for winter can be replanted early following spring. Allow bottom of head to rest on top of soil. 1" deep cuts across top of head will facilitate emergence of second-year growth.
SPACING: rows 30"; plants in rows 18"; plants in beds 15-18"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 300
CARROT (B) Daucus carota
FROST TOLERANCE: Excellent
CULTURE: Because of tap root, it is advisable to avoid starting carrots in flats for transplanting. Plant seeds after soil reaches 55· F. Carrots do best in rich (high in phosphorus and potassium with only moderate levels of nitrogen), uncompacted soil. Plant into firm, even seedbed. Weed continuously. (Because carrot seed usually takes 10 days to germinate, fast germinating weeds in a large bed can be controlled by burning with a torch without harming carrots.) Hill with dirt to avoid green shoulders and to protect from fall frosts. Companion plants include: peas, leaf lettuce, onions, garlic, tomatoes, sage. Dislikes: dill.
DISEASES: Provide fertile soil and rotate in least 3-year cycles to avoid most problems. In the mountains above 5,000 feet, we've never had fungus, blight or insects.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: For best taste and highest quality, harvest within 2 weeks of reaching maturity. Although carrots can be left in the garden protected by heavy mulch and deep snow, we prefer harvesting before ground freezes, and storing for winter in cold, dry sawdust or sand.
SEED PRODUCTION: Carrots are biennial with perfect flowers (each flower has both male and female parts). As insects are major pollinating agent, separate different varieties at least 100 yards if some crossing is tolerable, 1000 yards for purity. Beware that carrots will cross with Queen Anne's Lace (wild carrot)! Store best roots for replanting following year. Since flowering tops are quite large, leave minimum 2' between each carrot.
SPACING: rows 18-24"; plants in rows 1-3"; plants in beds 2"
SOIL PH: 5.5-6.7 SEEDS PER GRAM: 600 OUNCE: 9600
CAULIFLOWER (B) Brassica oleracea var. botrytis
FROST TOLERANCE: Mature plants survive temperatures as low as 10· F. Protect very young plants from frost.
CULTURE: The key to growing beautiful cauliflowers is consistency. Protect young plants from frosts. Water frequently. Side-dress with fertilizer or compost. Best results are obtained when plants are given at least 24" spacing. See Cabbage.
INSECTS AND DISEASES: See Broccoli.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: When white heads begin to appear, tie outer leaves together over top to preserve color and texture. See Broccoli.
SEED PRODUCTION: See Broccoli.
SPACING: rows 24"; plants in rows 12-24"; plants in beds 15"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 315
KALE (B) Brassica oleracea var. acephala
In harsh, high altitude gardens, one of the most dependable sources for vitamins and minerals. Frost improves rich flavor. Mark in fall to facilitate harvesting fresh and green in waist-deep snow.
FROST TOLERANCE: Very good.
CULTURE: Plant in flats 4-6 weeks early, or as soon as ground can be worked in spring. Fall crop can be planted 2-3 months before growing season ends. See Cabbage for companion plants.
INSECTS: Cabbage worms are rarely a problem but can be controlled with Bacillus thuringiensis.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Pick outside leaves first to stimulate continued production. Store 2 weeks at near-freezing temperatures, in humid environment.
SEED PRODUCTION: See Brussels Sprouts.
SPACING: rows 24-36"; plants in rows 18-24"; plants in beds: 16"
SOIL PH: 6.0-7.0 SEEDS PER GRAM: 300
LETTUCE (A) Latuca sativa
FROST TOLERANCE: Good to around 20· F., if hardened properly.
CULTURE: Plant seeds in flats 3-4 weeks early, or as soon as ground can be worked. Harden before transplanting by lowering temperature. Provide nitrogen-rich soil. (Add extra compost or chicken manure, if needed.) Water heavily in hot weather, but make sure leaves dry out before dark. Water head lettuce at base and keep in shade to avoid rot. Stagger plantings every 10 days, planting smaller amounts more often as weather becomes hot. For full heads, thin to 8". Companion plants include: carrots, radishes.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Harvest young and tender. As long as weather is cool, outside leaves on looseleaf varieties can be continually picked as they mature. Store 1-2 weeks in refrigerator with stems submerged in bowl of water.
SEED PRODUCTION: Lettuce produces perfect yellow flowers on tall, bushy seed stalks. Since flowers self-pollinate, there is little chance of cross-pollination between varieties. For purity, separate at least 25 yards with other crops.
SPACING: rows 12-24"; plants in rows or beds 8-12"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 800 OUNCE: 23,750
BUNCHING ONION (B) Allium cepa L.
FROST TOLERANCE: Good.
CULTURE: Plant seeds in spring as soon as ground can be worked. Prefers well-drained, rich soil, high in organic matter. Water frequently, especially during dry spells. Companion plants include: beets, lettuce, tomatoes, strawberries, chamomile. Dislikes: peas, beans.
DISEASES: To avoid most problems, rotate crops and eliminate standing water.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Leave a few bunching onions in garden to self-divide and reproduce perennially. Store fresh in refrigerator or in cool, not too humid environment.
SEED PRODUCTION: See Leeks. Bunching onions can be left in ground through winter. Bulb onions are best stored inside. In early spring, replant largest bulbs 4" apart, covering firmly with 1/2" soil. If onions are blooming at same time as wild onions, cage domestic plants to prevent cross-pollination by bees.
SPACING: rows 18-24"; plants in rows 2-4"; plants in beds 1-3"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 325 OUNCE: 12,500
PEA (A) Pisum sativum L.
FROST TOLERANCE: Good.
CULTURE: Plant seeds as soon as soil reaches 40· F. Provide slightly limed soil that has plenty of phosphorus and potassium. To increase nitrogen fixation, which in turn will increase yields, inoculate seed or soil with rhizobium bacteria. In high altitude gardens, speed germination and prevent seed rot by starting peas in cold frames or poly tubes. Companion plants include: beans, corn, carrots, turnips, radishes. Dislikes: onions, garlic.
DISEASES: Prevent pea root rot by planting in well-drained soils and rotating crops frequently. If mildew or wilt are problems, use resistant varieties.
HARVEST: To assure steady supply, plant at 2 week intervals throughout season. Stimulate continuous production by harvesting mature peas.
SEED PRODUCTION: Peas produce self-pollinating flowers. Cross-pollination by insects is rare as pollination is complete before flower opens. To assure purity, separate different varieties with another (PEA (PEA continued) flowering crop. Maturity is complete when seeds rattle in dry pods (about 30 days after eating stage).
SPACING: rows 24-36"; plants in rows 3"; plants in beds 3-4"
SOIL PH: Above 6.5 SEEDS PER OUNCE: 80 POUND: 2000
RADISH (A) Raphanus sativus L.
This vegetable is one of the easiest to grow.
FROST TOLERANCE: Very good.
CULTURE: Plant seeds when soil temp. reaches 40· F. Radishes love cool weather. Plant early and often. Provide shade in summer. Plant with crops that take longer to mature (e.g. carrots or broccoli) and harvest first. Companion plants include: cucumbers, peas, cabbage, lettuce, nasturtiums. Dislikes: hyssop.
INSECTS AND DISEASES: Control flea beetles in their pursuit of radish greens with pyrethrum. Allow radishes to attract cabbage root maggots away from cabbage family crops. Use of wood ashes and diatomaceous earth will irritate and discourage small worms. Use resistant varieties to avoid Fusarium wilt. Avoid infected soil.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: For best results, harvest when young. Store 1-2 weeks in sealed container in refrigerator. Store Daikon varieties for winter in cold sand or sawdust.
SEED PRODUCTION: Radish is an annual, primarily pollinated by bees. Select best roots and replant 12-18" apart early same summer. For purity, separate different varieties 1000 yards. As daikon radish is a biennial, replant roots following spring. Allow most of seed pods to turn brown before pulling plant.
SPACING: rows 8-16"; plants in rows 1-3"; plants in beds 2-3"
SOIL PH: 6.0-7.0 SEEDS PER GRAM: 75 OUNCE: 2500
SPINACH (A) Spinacia oleracea L.
FROST TOLERANCE: Very good.
CULTURE: Plant seeds in flats 3-4 weeks early, or as soon as ground can be worked. Provide moist, fertile soil. Water frequently, especially during dry spells. Occasionally feed with manure tea. To assure a season-long supply, plant every 2 weeks. In hot, summer weather, plant bolt-resistant varieties.
INSECTS: Control aphids with pyrethrum.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: For continued production, carefully harvest mature, outside leaves. Store 2 weeks in refrigerator with stems submerged in bowl of water.
SEED PRODUCTION: Spinach is a dioecious annual, producing male and female plants. To improve quality of strain, remove plants that bolt first (they are usually males). Because spinach pollen is extremely fine, hard to contain in cages and easily carried long distances by the wind, plant a single variety of spinach for seed per year.
SPACING: rows 12-24"; plants in rows 2-6"; plants in beds 4"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 100 OUNCE: 2500
SWISS CHARD (B) Beta vulgaris var. Cicla
FROST TOLERANCE: Fair. Chard will withstand fall frosts to 15-20· F. If left to winter, protect with mulch.
CULTURE: Plant seeds as soon as soil reaches 50· F. See Beets. Companion plants include: onions. Dislikes: pole beans.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: To stimulate continued production, harvest mature, outer leaves first. See Spinach.
SEED PRODUCTION: See Beets. Swiss chard is classified in same species as beets, and will cross-pollinate. Be very careful if trying to produce seed for both at same time.
SPACING: rows 24"; plants in rows 8-12"; plants in beds 10-12"
SOIL PH: 6.5-7.5 SEEDS PER GRAM: 60
TURNIP (B) Brassica rapa L.
FROST TOLERANCE: Good.
CULTURE: Plant directly when soil reaches 50· F. Turnips grow in wide variety of soils but produce best in rich, loam. Water sufficiently, not allowing soil to dry out. Companion plants include: peas.
INSECTS: Control flea beetles with pyrethrum and rotenone. Use wood ash or diatomaceous earth to discourage root maggots.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Begin harvesting greens and small turnips within 4 weeks. See Carrots.
SEED PRODUCTION: Turnips are biennials with perfect flowers. Store best roots to replant (12" spacing) next spring. Since turnips are pollinated by bees, and cross with numerous domestic and wild plants, including mustard, Chinese cabbage and horseradish, caging is recommended.
SPACING: rows 12-24"; plants in rows 2-5"; plants in beds 3"
SOIL PH: 6.0-7.0 SEEDS PER GRAM: 500
The Little Garden Parsnip
These are not wild parsnips these are cultavated seeds.
At the moment my parsnips are under the basil but I will have a photo of them soon.
This article is pulled from a local website.
Please check out the websites below for recipes and more info.
Please check out my website for gardening info.
http://www.thetincat.com/garden.html
Parsnips are available as a fresh vegetable throughout the winter, actually improving as the winter progresses and especially if a frost gets to the roots. They can be baked, boiled or fried and the leaves can also be eaten as a green vegetable, getting double value from the crop.
The problem with growing parsnips is that they have a very long growing season. They are one of the first crops to be sown and probably the last crop to be harvested. They occupy the land for the year, thus taking up land which could be used for growing a series of crops.
If you have a small garden you may decide against growing parsnips for this reason, although you may decide to grow a catch crop such as radishes or lettuce, before the parsnips become established in the spring.
Where To Grow Your Parsnips
Soil is the most important factor when growing parsnips. If you have thin gravelly soil you will only get small mis-shapen roots The best soil is rich and slightly on the heavy side, although it should not be recently manured as this causes the parsnip to fork as they do if growing on stony ground. Almost all well drained soils will produce a good crop. Level the bed off to give a fine tilth a day or two before sowing, which will normally be as soon as conditions allow in the late winter or early spring.
Parsnips dislike very acid soil and do best in one which is slightly acid, neutral or slightly alkaline, test your soil with a soil test kit several weeks before preparing the seed bed and if necessary, add lime to achieve a pH of 6.5. The site you choose for parsnips is not as important as the soil, they prefer an open sunny site, but they will also grow quite happily in a lightly shaded plot.
Sowing Parsnip Seed
The traditional time to sow parsnip seed is late winter but, unless the winter is mild, the soil is often frozen hard or too wet at this time. In most years you will probably have to wait until early spring before sowing. Although parsnips appreciate a long growing season, you can sow later, up to late spring if you have to, and still get a worthwhile crop. Ensure that the seed is fresh this year because parsnip seeds do not keep well.
Before sowing make sure the soil is well dug and free from stones to a spade's depth. Make a shallow drill in the soil about 2cm (¾in) deep. Where you require more than one row, make the rows 30-45 cm (12-18 in) apart. Sow one seed every 5cm (2in).
Because parsnip seed is so light it is advisable to wait until the weather is calm before sowing. You may be able to buy seeds that are pelleted, there are a few parsnip varieties which are available in this form. The pelleted seed is slightly heavier, so they will not blow away so easily. After the seeds have been sown cover them with soil, sifted soil is best for this, and then firm down. Water the area if the weather is dry. Germination takes approximately three to four weeks and is is quite possible for the newly forming seedlings to be lost amongst the newly germinating weeds. Weed frequently and carefully.
Many gardeners sow a quick maturing catch crop such as radish, or lettuce. This not only give you an extra crop but it also helps to mark out the rows of parsnips. If you do not wish to do this, keep your marker in position until the parsnip seeds have germinated and the rows of seedlings is obvious above the ground.
Care of Parsnips
When the seedlings are about 5 cm (2 in) tall, thin them so that they are 20cm (8in) apart. Water, particularly during the early stages of the crop, if the weather is dry and weed frequently. Be very careful when weeding with a hoe, if you damage the developing roots you may open the way for attack by canker.
Harvesting Parsnips
Parsnips will be ready for harvest in mid-autumn. One obvious They are best left in the ground for a month or so because their flavour is improved by some exposure to frost. Frost increases the amount of sugar in the roots. Parsnips can be harvested up to mid-January.
Small parsnips in light soil can be pulled up once the soil around them has been loosened with a fork. Normally the only way parsnips can be lifted without breaking them is by digging. Begin at the end of the row and dig a hole beyond but close to the last parsnip. Dig the hole as deep at the parsnip and loosen the soil around the root and then it can be easily removed without damage. Lift the next parsnip by moving the soil next to it into the hole from which the first parsnip has been taken and continue like this to the end of the row. You may find that you have to dig down much further than you expect, the end of a parsnip tapers off for a considerable length 15 cm (6 in) or more, and has a very strong grip on the soil. You may want to break off the thinnest part of the root if you want to avoid digging a very deep hole possibly 45 cm (18 in) deep for each root. Once the parsnip has been lifted, cut off the remaining leaves, these are excellent compost heap material.
Storing Parsnips
Although the best flavoured parsnips are ones that are lifted and taken into the kitchen straight from the ground, during the winter when the ground is frozen this will not be possible. To give you parsnips during this period you should dig up some roots in the early winter for storing. Store parsnips in the same way as you would carrots. Cut any leaves off close to the crowns and then pack them in layers of dry sand or peat in a large wooden box. Put a lid on the top to keep our the light and place the box in a cool, dry and airy place.
Pests and Diseases
Disease / Pest Symptoms
Wireworm Small regular holes and shiny yellow larvae
Sclerotina Rot Roots in store rotten and covered with a white fluffy mould
Canker Reddish brown, dark brown or black patches on the shoulders of the root.
Leaf Spot Small brown spots on the leaves.
Celery Fly White or pale brown blisters on the leaves, leaves shrivelled.
Carrot Fly Irregular holes in the root sometimes with small whitish grubs inside.
Sites to visit on the parsnip
http://www.gardeningpatch.com/vegetable/growing-parsnip.aspx
http://farmingfriends.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/how-to-grow-parsnips-sheet.jpg
http://www.vegparadise.com/highestperch21.html
http://ceplacer.ucdavis.edu/files/8181.pdf
http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/p/parsni12.html
Our fav. recipe is Parsnip Stew.
Take your fav. stew recipe and replace all the potatoes with parsnips.
Wonderful change in flavor.
If you do not have a stew recipe i would be happy to post one.
At the moment my parsnips are under the basil but I will have a photo of them soon.
This article is pulled from a local website.
Please check out the websites below for recipes and more info.
Please check out my website for gardening info.
http://www.thetincat.com/garden.html
The problem with growing parsnips is that they have a very long growing season. They are one of the first crops to be sown and probably the last crop to be harvested. They occupy the land for the year, thus taking up land which could be used for growing a series of crops.
If you have a small garden you may decide against growing parsnips for this reason, although you may decide to grow a catch crop such as radishes or lettuce, before the parsnips become established in the spring.
Where To Grow Your Parsnips
Soil is the most important factor when growing parsnips. If you have thin gravelly soil you will only get small mis-shapen roots The best soil is rich and slightly on the heavy side, although it should not be recently manured as this causes the parsnip to fork as they do if growing on stony ground. Almost all well drained soils will produce a good crop. Level the bed off to give a fine tilth a day or two before sowing, which will normally be as soon as conditions allow in the late winter or early spring.
Parsnips dislike very acid soil and do best in one which is slightly acid, neutral or slightly alkaline, test your soil with a soil test kit several weeks before preparing the seed bed and if necessary, add lime to achieve a pH of 6.5. The site you choose for parsnips is not as important as the soil, they prefer an open sunny site, but they will also grow quite happily in a lightly shaded plot.
Sowing Parsnip Seed
The traditional time to sow parsnip seed is late winter but, unless the winter is mild, the soil is often frozen hard or too wet at this time. In most years you will probably have to wait until early spring before sowing. Although parsnips appreciate a long growing season, you can sow later, up to late spring if you have to, and still get a worthwhile crop. Ensure that the seed is fresh this year because parsnip seeds do not keep well.
Before sowing make sure the soil is well dug and free from stones to a spade's depth. Make a shallow drill in the soil about 2cm (¾in) deep. Where you require more than one row, make the rows 30-45 cm (12-18 in) apart. Sow one seed every 5cm (2in).
Because parsnip seed is so light it is advisable to wait until the weather is calm before sowing. You may be able to buy seeds that are pelleted, there are a few parsnip varieties which are available in this form. The pelleted seed is slightly heavier, so they will not blow away so easily. After the seeds have been sown cover them with soil, sifted soil is best for this, and then firm down. Water the area if the weather is dry. Germination takes approximately three to four weeks and is is quite possible for the newly forming seedlings to be lost amongst the newly germinating weeds. Weed frequently and carefully.
Many gardeners sow a quick maturing catch crop such as radish, or lettuce. This not only give you an extra crop but it also helps to mark out the rows of parsnips. If you do not wish to do this, keep your marker in position until the parsnip seeds have germinated and the rows of seedlings is obvious above the ground.
Care of Parsnips
When the seedlings are about 5 cm (2 in) tall, thin them so that they are 20cm (8in) apart. Water, particularly during the early stages of the crop, if the weather is dry and weed frequently. Be very careful when weeding with a hoe, if you damage the developing roots you may open the way for attack by canker.
Harvesting Parsnips
Parsnips will be ready for harvest in mid-autumn. One obvious They are best left in the ground for a month or so because their flavour is improved by some exposure to frost. Frost increases the amount of sugar in the roots. Parsnips can be harvested up to mid-January.
Small parsnips in light soil can be pulled up once the soil around them has been loosened with a fork. Normally the only way parsnips can be lifted without breaking them is by digging. Begin at the end of the row and dig a hole beyond but close to the last parsnip. Dig the hole as deep at the parsnip and loosen the soil around the root and then it can be easily removed without damage. Lift the next parsnip by moving the soil next to it into the hole from which the first parsnip has been taken and continue like this to the end of the row. You may find that you have to dig down much further than you expect, the end of a parsnip tapers off for a considerable length 15 cm (6 in) or more, and has a very strong grip on the soil. You may want to break off the thinnest part of the root if you want to avoid digging a very deep hole possibly 45 cm (18 in) deep for each root. Once the parsnip has been lifted, cut off the remaining leaves, these are excellent compost heap material.
Storing Parsnips
Although the best flavoured parsnips are ones that are lifted and taken into the kitchen straight from the ground, during the winter when the ground is frozen this will not be possible. To give you parsnips during this period you should dig up some roots in the early winter for storing. Store parsnips in the same way as you would carrots. Cut any leaves off close to the crowns and then pack them in layers of dry sand or peat in a large wooden box. Put a lid on the top to keep our the light and place the box in a cool, dry and airy place.
Pests and Diseases
Disease / Pest Symptoms
Wireworm Small regular holes and shiny yellow larvae
Sclerotina Rot Roots in store rotten and covered with a white fluffy mould
Canker Reddish brown, dark brown or black patches on the shoulders of the root.
Leaf Spot Small brown spots on the leaves.
Celery Fly White or pale brown blisters on the leaves, leaves shrivelled.
Carrot Fly Irregular holes in the root sometimes with small whitish grubs inside.
Sites to visit on the parsnip
http://www.gardeningpatch.com/vegetable/growing-parsnip.aspx
http://farmingfriends.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/how-to-grow-parsnips-sheet.jpg
http://www.vegparadise.com/highestperch21.html
http://ceplacer.ucdavis.edu/files/8181.pdf
http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/p/parsni12.html
Our fav. recipe is Parsnip Stew.
Take your fav. stew recipe and replace all the potatoes with parsnips.
Wonderful change in flavor.
If you do not have a stew recipe i would be happy to post one.
Bowling Balls Garden Style
This is a fun way to reuse that old ball.
I found this while surfing the web and may put this out in my own yeard.
Next to the ball bugs.
Tutorial found HERE
I found this while surfing the web and may put this out in my own yeard.
Next to the ball bugs.
Tutorial found HERE
Make Mine Black
• Mix grounds into soil as an amendment. Make sure to keep them damp. Add some nitrogen fertilizer if you do this, as coffee grounds encourage the growth of microbes in the soil, which use up nitrogen. While microbes are breaking down the grounds, the nitrogen will provide a source of nutrients for your plants.
• Spread grounds on the soil surface, then cover them with leaves or bark mulch.
• Add grounds to your compost pile, layering one part leaves to one part fresh grass clippings to one part coffee grounds, by volume. Turn once a week. This will be ready in three to six months.
• Or, put them in an existing unturned pile. Just make sure to add a high carbon source, such as leaves to balance it.
• Grounds may be stored for future use. They may develop molds but these appear to be consumed during the composting process. Or a large plastic bag works for storage as well.
• Paper coffee filters may be composted with the grounds.
Keep in mind that uncomposted coffee grounds are NOT a nitrogen fertilizer. Coffee grounds have a carbon-to-nitrogen ration of about 20 to 1, in the same range as animal manure. Germination tests in Eugene showed that uncomposted coffee grounds, added to soil as about one-fourth the volume, showed poor germination and stunted growth in lettuce seed. Therefore, they need to be composted before using near plants.
Wise and her composting protégés have been conducting informal research on composting coffee grounds. So far, they have observed that coffee grounds help to sustain high temperatures in compost piles. High temperatures reduce potentially dangerous pathogens and kill seeds from weeds and vegetables that were added to the piles. They have noticed that coffee grounds seem to improve soil structure, plus attract earthworms.
When coffee grounds made up 25 percent of the volume of their compost piles, temperatures in the piles stayed between 135 degrees and 155 degrees for at least two weeks, enough time to have killed a "significant portion" of the pathogens and seeds. In contrast, the manure in the trials didn't sustain the heat as long.
"We were amazed at the results we got with coffee grounds when we did the trial," said Wise.
Jack Hannigan, an Extension-trained compost specialist, is pleased with the results he gets from the coffee grounds he collects from the Fast Lane Coffee Company in Springfield to use on his farm in Pleasant Hill.
"I make hotbeds that run about 150 degrees," Hannigan said. "It kills the weeds. I can get the piles hotter and break down the compost better with coffee grounds than I can with manure. It works great."
Coffee grounds also can be added directly to soil but the grounds need a few months to break down, Wise said. "We're not certain about how coffee grounds act with the soil, but anecdotally people say they do dig it into the soil," she said.
An additional benefit of diverting coffee grounds from the landfill is that it helps cut greenhouse gas emissions, said Dan Hurley, waste management engineer for Lane County's Short Mountain Landfill.
"To keep organics out of the landfill is a good thing for reducing greenhouse gas emissions because organics decompose and produce methane. Methane is about 25 times as bad as carbon dioxide, a greenhouse gas," said Hurley.
The Moss Pit
Lawn at the old house in 2003
This was not lawn at all but moss.
I recommend it highly under large fir and pine trees.
It was the best lawn we ever had.
Mowed it only 5 times a year and it stayed green all year long.
Once a month I put gallon of buttermilk and miracid into a blender and poured it over the moss in thin lines to help feed and spread it.
Growing moss
Step 1 pull any weeds and other plants currently growing in the area. Make the entire area bare, and remove rocks, branches and any other debris or objects on the ground.
Step 2 Carry out a pH soil test using your pH testing kit. Moss requires a slightly acidic soil base. Your soil should have a pH level of approximately 5.5. If necessary, lower soil pH levels by one point by mixing 1.2 ounces of rock sulfur for every square yard of dirt. Alternatively, raise the pH by one point by mixing eight ounces of hydrated lime in every square yard of soil. Repeat this step until the pH level is just right.
Step 3 Lightly water the soil until the dirt is moist but not muddy.
Step 4 Obtain moss. Your local nursery may sell flats of moss. Alternatively, transplant the moss from another area of your yard or from moss growing in the wild. Harvest the moss with a garden spade, carefully scooping the moss up off of the surface on which it is growing.
Step 5 Lay the transplanted moss on the prepared soil plot. Gently pat it down so that the moss is level. Water continuously throughout the day to keep the moist perpetually moist, but not dripping wet. If you are not able to manually water the moss, set a sprinkler with a timer. The moss will establish itself within three weeks.
Seed packs Free printable
Standard size to cover your store bought seeds with.
Copy and save as to your system, then print on card staok , fold on the lines, glue edges and fill.
Bowling ball Bugs
The Lady bugs
The Bee
Bowling Ball Bumblebee
Joyce Kline Creator
SUPPLIES LIST:
Bowling Ball
Silicone caulk
101" #6 copper wire. Have it cut at the hardware store at these lengths:
1.Two—8.5" lengths for antenna
2.Two—20" lengths for top wing
3.Two—22" lengths for bottom wing
Window Screen: Two—8.5" squares
Hardware cloth: Two—9.5" squares
Two—1" round wooden beads
Kilz exterior primer
Yellow exterior latex paint
Black exterior latex paint
26 gauge bare copper wire (approx. 60-70" for each wing)
Brush or sponge
Wire cutter
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.Prime the bowling ball. Let dry. Paint the bowling ball with yellow paint. (We applied two coats).
2.Bend the 8.5" lengths of wire slightly to make antennae. Paint the two beads black (we used a thin wash coat of paint).
3.Squirt a little dab of caulk into each bead hole. Push one bead onto end of antenna. Repeat for the next antenna.
4.Bend the 20" lengths into an oval shape for the bottom set of wings. Bend down about 1-1/2" at the ends. (This will be inserted into the finger holes on the ball.)
5.Bend the 22" lengths into an oval shape for the top set of wings. Bend down about 1-1/2" at the ends to place in the fingerholes.
6.Center 20" wire ovals over the window screen material and "sew" the thin copper wire to the wire to attach screening. Trim around the edges after sewing. We found it was easier "sewing" from the underside of the wing.
7.Center 22" wire ovals over hardware cloth and "sew" with thin copper wire too attach to the cloth. Trim to 1/4" past the edge and bend hardware cloth edges around copper wire.
8.Apply painters tape to the ball where desired and paint or sponge black stripes on the ball. Let dry.
9.Squirt caulk into finger holes to attach antenna and wings. Let dry for 24 hours. Touch up areas on finger holes.
Edible flowers
Common Name Botanical Name Comments
Angelica Angelica archangelica May be skin allergen to some individuals. Good with fish and the stems are especially popular candied. Tastes like: celery-flavored. More info here.
Anise Hyssop Agastache foeniculum Tastes like: sweet, anise-like, licorice
Apple Malus species Eat in moderation; may contain cyanide precursors. Tastes like: delicate floral flavor
Arugula Eruca vesicaria Tastes like: nutty, spicy, peppery flavor
Basil Ocimum basilicum Tastes like: different varieties have different milder flavors of the corresponding leaves. Tastes like: lemon, mint. More info here.
Bee Balm Monarda species Used in place of bergamot to make a tea with a flavor similar to Earl Grey Tea. More info here.
Borage Borago officinalis Taste like: light cucumber flavor. More info here.
Burnet Sanguisorba minor Tastes like: faint cucumber flavor, very mild. More info here.
Calendula* Calendula officinalis Tastes like: poor man's saffron, spicy, tangy, peppery, adds a golden hue to foods
Carnation Dianthus caryophyllus (aka Dianthus) Tastes like: spicy, peppery, clove-like
Chamomile* Chamaemelum nobile Tastes like: faint apple flavor, good as a tea
Chicory* Cichorium intybus Buds can be pickled.
Chives: Garden Allium schoenoprasum Tastes like: mild onion flavor. More info here.
Chives: Garlic Allium tuberosum Tastes like: garlicky flavor
Chrysanthemum: Garland* Chrysanthemum coronarium Tastes like: slight to bitter flavor, pungent
Citrus: Lemon Citrus limon Tastes like: waxy, pronounced flavor, use sparingly as an edible garnish, good for making citrus waters
Clover Trifolium species Raw flowerheads can be difficult to digest.
Coriander Coriander sativum Pungent. A prime ingredient in salsa and many Latino and Oriental dishes. Tastes like: Some palates detect a disagreeable soapy flavor while others adore it. More info here.
Cornflower* Centaurea cynaus (aka Bachelor's Buttons) Tastes like: sweet to spicy, clove-like
Dandelion* Taraxacum officinalis Tastes like: very young buds fried in butter taste similar to mushrooms. Makes a potent wine.
Day Lily Hemerocallis species Many Lilies (Lillium species) contain alkaloids and are NOT edible. Daylillies may act as a laxative. Tastes like: sweet, crunchy, like a crisp lettuce leaf, faintly like chestnuts or beans
Dill Anthum graveolens More info here.
English Daisy* Bellis perennis Tastes like: tangy, leafy
Fennel Foeniculum vulgare Tastes like: sweet, licorice flavor. More info here.
Fuchsia Fuchsia X hybrida Tastes like: slightly acidic
Gardenia Gardenia jasminoides Tastes like: light, sweet flavor
Gladiolus* Gladiolus spp Tastes like: similar to lettuce
Hibiscus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Tastes like: slightly acidic, boiled makes a nice beverage
Hollyhock Alcea rosea Tastes like: very bland, nondescript flavor
Honeysuckle: Japanese Lonicera japonica Berries are highly poisonous. Do not eat them!
Hyssop Hyssopus officinalis Should be avoided by pregnant women and by those with hypertension and epilepsy.
Impatiens Impatiens wallerana Tastes like: very bland, nondescript flavor
Jasmine: Arabian Jasminum sambac Tastes like: delicate sweet flavor, used for teas.
Johnny-Jump-Up Viola tricolor Contains saponins and may be toxic in large amounts. Tastes like: sweet to bland flavor
Lavender Lavendula species Lavender oil may be poisenous. More Info. Tastes like: floral, slightly perfumey flavor
Lemon Verbena Aloysia triphylla Tastes like: lemony flavor, usually steeped for tea
Lilac Syringa vulgaris Tastes like: lemony, floral, pungent
Mallow: Common Malva sylrestris Tastes like: sweet, delicate flavor
Marigold: Signet Tagetes tenuifolia (aka T. signata) Tastes like: spicy to bitter
Marjoram Origanum majorana More info here.
Mint Mentha species More info here.
Mustard Brassica species Eating in large amounts may cause red skin blotches. More info here.
Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus Buds are often pickled and used like capers. Tastes like: sweet, mildly pungent, peppery flavor
Okra Abelmoschus aesculentus
(Hibiscus esculentus) Tastes like: similar to squash blossoms
Pansy Viola X wittrockiana Tastes like: very mild sweet to tart flavor
Pea Pisum species Flowering ornamental sweet peas are poisonous.
Pineapple Guava Feijoa sellowiana Tastes like: similar to the ripe fruit of the plant, flavorful
Primrose Primula vulgaris Birdseye Primrose (P. farinosa) causes contact dermatitis. Tastes like: bland to sweet flavor
Radish Raphanus sativus Tastes like: milder, sweeter version of the more familiar radish heat
Redbud Cercis canadensis Tastes like: mildly sweet
Rose Rosa rugosa or R. gallica officinalis Tastes like: sweet, aromatic flavor, stronger fragrance produces a stronger flavor. Be sure to remove the bitter white portion of the petals. Rose hips are also edible (see Rose Hips Recipes).
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis Tastes like: pine-like, sweet, savory. More info here
Runner Bean Phaseolus coccineus Tastes like: nectar, bean-like
Safflower* Carthamus tinctorius Another "poor man's saffron" without the pungent aroma or strong flavor of the real thing
Sage Salvia officinalis Sage should not be eaten in large amounts over a long period of time. Tastes like: varies by type. More info here.
Savory: Summer Satureja hortensis More info here.
Scented Geranium Pelargonium species Citronella variety may not be edible. Tastes like: varies with differing varieties from lemon to mint. More info here.
Snapdragon Antirrhinum majus Tastes like: bland to bitter flavor
Society Garlic Tulbaghia violacea Tastes like: a very mild garlic flavor
Squash Blossom Cucurbita pepo species (aka Zucchini Blossom) Tastes like: sweet, nectar flavor. More info here.
Sunflower* Helianthus annus Tastes like: leafy, slightly bitter. Lightly steam petals to lessen bitterness. Unopened flower buds can be steamed like artichokes.
Thyme Thymus vulgaris Tastes like: lemon, adds a nice light scent. More info here.
Tuberous Begonia Begonia X tuberosa ONLY HYBRIDs are edible. The flowers and stems contain oxalic acid and should not be consumed by individuals suffering from gout, kidneystones, or rheumatism. Further, the flower should be eaten in strick moderation. Tastes like: crisp, sour, lemony
Violet Viola species Tastes like: sweet, nectar
Yucca Yucca species Only the petals are edible. Other parts contain saponin, which is poisonous. Large amounts may be harmful. Tastes like: crunchy, fresh flavor
Flowers to Avoid Some flowers in particular to be avoided (but not a complete list) are: azalea, crocus, daffodil, foxglove, oleander, rhododendron, jack-in-the-pulpit, lily of the valley, and wisteria. See a more complete list.
Have you ever been to a restaurant where they have served you a beautiful salad with flower petals scattered around the plate? Or maybe you have had a cake decorated with flowers on top? Perhaps you have visited a Tea Room and were served flower syrup. Edible flowers are the new rage in haute cuisine. The look is elegant; yet preparing flowers for eating is simple and fun to do.
The amazing part to edible flowers is that in spite of it being the new rage, eating flowers has been going on for centuries. The first mention of people consuming flowers was as far back as 140 BC! Did you realize that broccoli, cauliflower, artichokes and broccoflower are all flowers? Or that the spice saffron is the stamen from the crocus flower? Capers are unopened flower buds to a bush native in the Mediterranean and Asian nations.
In regions such as the Middle East, Eastern Europe and India, floral waters such as rosewater and orange flower water are used to flavor candies to meats to beverages! France has a spice mixture known as "Herbes de Provence" which has dried lavender flowers in it. North Africa has an herbal mixture too, which contains rosebuds and lavender. The green liqueur, Chartreuse, contains carnations.
There are a few cautions one should remember before harvesting any flowers:
(a) Do not harvest any flowers that could have been exposed to animal excretement.
(b) Do not harvest any flowers that have had insecticides sprayed on them.
(c) Do not harvest any flowers that have had fertilizers sprayed on them unless specified for food consumption.
(d) Do not harvest any flowers from the side of roads where they have been exposed to trash, carbon monoxide etc.
(e) If you are unsure if it is edible, then do not eat it. Caution is always the best policy.
(f) If you have any allergies, consult your physician before
consuming edible flowers.
(g) Do not eat any flowers from florists as they have been sprayed with pesticides.
(h) Do not pick any flowers that show signs of disease or have been eaten by insects.
Pick your flowers in the morning when their water content is at its highest. Then bathe the flowers gently in a salt-water bath.
Immediately drop them in ice water for 1 minute. Dry on a paper
towel. For best results, use your flower petals immediately (not the stamen or the stems), or store the whole flower in a glass of water in the refrigerator overnight.
Flowers can be used for a multitude of dishes: from garnishes to salads. Try freezing petals in ice cube trays
filled with water for a unique addition to your favorite lemonade or iced tea!
RECIPES:
CANDIED FLOWERS
1 egg white (please use powdered egg whites to avoid salmonella)
100 proof vodka
superfine granulated sugar
thin artist's paintbrush
violets, pansies, Johnny-jump-ups, rose petals, lilac, borage, pea, pinks, scented geraniums
wire rack
Beat egg whites until frothy. Add a couple of drops of vodka to help the flowers dry quicker. Using fresh picked flowers, paint each flower individually with beaten egg white using the artist's paintbrush. When thoroughly coated, sprinkle with fine sugar and place on the wire rack to dry. Flowers are completely dry when stiff and brittle to the touch. They can be stored in an airtight container and put in the freezer for up to a year. A simple bakery cake can be turned into a work of art by garnishing with candies flowers.
Will last approximately 6 months!
Idea: Try a chocolate cake decorated with fresh raspberries and candied rose petals.
FLORAL LIQUEUR
4 cups vodka or brandy
1-cup sugar
1 - 2 cups flowers
Place lightly bruised petals in a jar with vodka or brandy and steep for 2 days. Then, add sugar and steep for 2 weeks, shaking vigorously once or twice a day to let sugar dissolve. Strain and filter into clean decanter.
Ideas: rose, carnation, lavendar and mint orange zest and mint ginger and pear peaches and lemon verbena
raspberry and lemon balm use a dry white wine
FLOWER BUTTER
1/2 - 1 cup chopped fresh or dried petals
1 lb. sweet unsalted butter
Finely chop flower petals and mix into softened butter. Let mix stand for several hours at room temperature, then refrigerate for several days to bring out the flavour. Can be frozen for several months.
Wonderful on breads or used in sugar cookie or pound cake recipes.
Ideas: use cream cheese rose, lavender or sunflower add some herbs: basil, thyme, garlic
FLOWER HONEY
1/2 - 1 cup fresh or dried petals
1 lb. honey
Add chopped or crushed flowers to honey. Loosely cover jar and place in a pan half full of gently boiling water. Remove from heat, and let sit in the hot water for 10 minutes. Remove jar from water and let cool to room temperature. Allow jar of honey with flowers to sit for 1 week. Flowers can then be strained out if desired.
Will last indefinitely in a cool dark place.
Uses: Tea, salad dressings, on croissants, scones, muffins and bread.
FLOWER JELLY
2 1/2 cups apple juice OR white wine
1 cup fresh rose petals or scented geranium flowers and leaves
4 cups sugar
1/4 lemon juice
1 - 2 drops food coloring (optional)
3 ounces of liquid pectin
fresh flower petals (optional)
Bring juice or wine to a boil and pour over petals. Cover and steep until liquid has cooled, then strain out flowers leaving only liquid.
Combine 2 cups of this flower infusion with sugar, lemon juice and food coloring. Bring to a boil over high heat and as soon as the sugar has dissolved, stir in the pectin. Return to a rolling boil, stirring, and boiling for exactly 1 minute. Remove the jelly from the heat and skim off any foam. Let jelly cool slightly and add more flower petals (if desired), then pour into sterilized jars. If petals do not stay suspended, stir jelly as it cools until petals stay in place. Process in hot water bath or seal with paraffin.
Yields: 4 - 5 half pints
FLOWER OIL
1/2 - 1 cup fresh or dried flowers
1 qt. vegetable oil
Add flowers to bottle of oil and place in a pan of water. Simmer water with bottle in it gently for at least 30 minutes. Remove from stove and cool. Cover bottle tightly, and let steep a week before using. If dried flowers are used, they may be left in the oil. Fresh flowers should be drained after one week as they lose their color.
Uses: Salad dressings, marinades, hot pasta, stir-frying.
Nasturtium and herb blossom oils are excellent for sautéing.
Rose and carnation oils make nice salad dressings.
FLOWER SYRUP
1-cup water (or rosewater)
3 cups sugar
1/2 - 1-cup flower petals, whole or crushed
Boil all ingredients for 10 minutes, or until thickened into syrup.Strain through cheesecloth into a clean glass jar. Keeps up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Can be added to sparkling water or champagne for a delicious beverage. Or, it may be poured over fruit, pound cake or pancakes.
An Incomplete List of POISONOUS FLOWERS Commonly Found in the Garden:
Aconite Anemone
Anthurium Atamasco Lily
Autumn Crocus Azalea
Baneberry Bead Tree
Belladonna Black Locust
Black Snakeroot Bloodroot
Boxwood Buttercup
Butterfly Weed Caladium
Calla Lily Carolina Jasmine
Castor Bean Cherry Laurel
Chinaberry Christmas Rose
Clematis Daffodil
Deadly Nightshade Death Cammus
Delphinium Dogsbane
Dumbcane Elephant Ears
False Hellebore Four O'clock
Foxglove Gardenia
Gloriosa Lily Golden Chain Tree
Goldenseal Heavenly Bamboo
Henbane Horse Chestnut
Horse Nettle Hyacinth
Hydrangea Iris
Ivy Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Jerusalem Cherry Jessamine
Jetbead Jimson Weed
Jonquil Kentucky Coffee Tree
Laburnum Lantana
Larkspur Leopardsbane
Lily of the Valley Lobelia
Marsh Marigold May Apple
Mescal Bean Mistletoe
Monkhood Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel Nightshade
Ohio Buckeye Oleander
Periwinkle Philodendron
Poinsettia Poison Hemlock
Potato Privet
Rhododendron Rock Poppy
Schefflera Spring Adonis
Star of Bethlehem Strawberry Bush
Sweet Pea Tobacco
Tomato (blooms) Trumpet Vine
Wahoo Water Hemlock
Wild Cherry Windflower
Wisteria Wolfsbane
Yellow Allamanda Yellow Oleander
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/edibles.html
http://herb-gardens.suite101.com/article.cfm/nasturtiums
http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/edible-flowers.html
http://www.learningherbs.com/edible_flower_recipes.html
Flower and garden Week April 1 --- April 10
This is a Tutorial of a straw flower created by Sunshinescreations.
She has a list of other fine tutorials HERE.
The site is a bit slow to load but worth the wait has she has large picture tutorials that are very easy to follow.
This week Flowers and the Garden
So here goes. List of online garden mags. full of info .
BACKYARD LIVING
BIRD & BLOOMS
ORGANIC GARDENING
ALFRESCO
FINE LIVING
HORTICULTURE
FINE GARDENING
MY HOME IDEAS COTTAGE LIVING
DREAMS ALIVE
BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS
HERB QUARTERLY
GARDEN DESIGN
GARDEN GATE
Cleaning and Caring for Birdfeeders
If you enjoying feeding backyard birds, cleaning and maintaining your birdfeeders is an important part of keeping your feathered friends safe and healthy. Wild birds prefer fresh, mold-free birdseed and a safe and convenient place to feed. Clean and well-maintained feeders not only attract more birds, they also reduce the risk of disease.
Wood Feeders
It's common for wooden feeders to weather and fade over the years. It is not necessary to treat wood feeders with products; however, if you wish to maintain the appearance of your feeder, you can follow these simple directions.
Redwood or Cedar Feeders:
Feeders made from these materials are ideal for outside use because of their natural resistance to weathering. Under normal conditions, these woods require very little maintenance, however, they will gradually fade in color as they age. If you want to maintain the original color of the wood, give it a coat of non-toxic wood sealer or linseed oil every few years. Make sure you apply it to the outside area of the feeder only and not to the eating surface of the bird feeders. There are a wide variety of soy-based non-toxic wood sealers currently on the market. If you can't find one locally, check out Green Builder's Supply on the web.
Pine Feeders:
Pine feeders also weather nicely, but will fade with time. Again, apply a non-toxic wood sealer or linseed oil as needed. If your feeder needs repainting, remove any loose paint flakes and sand the birdfeeder lightly. Repaint with an eco-friendly paint rated for outdoor use. Make sure the paint you use does not contain lead, zinc, or chromate.
As with all wooden feeders, inspect them for protruding nails and sharp points or edges each time you fill them with seed. Small cuts and scratches on feet and toes can quickly lead to infections.
Copper Feeders
Copper is highly resistant to corrosion, and if not preserved, acquires a beautiful green patina over time. Copper cleaners are considered toxic to birds, so if you want to restore the copper to its original luster, try one of these non-toxic recipes:
Non-Toxic Copper Cleaner:
Mix 2 tablespoons salt, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Rub with sponge and allow to dry. Rinse with hot water and dry with a soft cloth. Or, apply a paste of lemon juice and cream of tartar and leave on for 5 minutes. Wash in warm water and dry with a soft cloth.
Keeping Feeders Clean
Cleaning your bird feeders regularly year round is important for the health of the birds.All you really need is a pair of rubber gloves, hot water, scent-free liquid dish soap, a scrub brush, and some white distilled vinegar. Fill a sink or tub with hot soapy water and let the feeder soak in it for 10 or 15 minutes to loosen up any caked-on debris. After soaking, give the feeder a good scrubbing, then rinse well and let it air dry. For tough jobs, refill with clean water and 4 cups of vinegar. Let the feeder soak for 1 hour. Rinse thoroughly and let it air dry.
Hummingbird Feeders:
Because hummingbird feeders are filled with a sugar solution, they need to be cleaned more frequently than other types of feeders. This chore is much easier if you start out with a feeder that has parts that are easy to disassemble and clean (stick it in the dishwasher!). Every time you refill your feeder with nectar, wash it out with hot water (no soap). Use small bottle brushes, toothbrushes, pipe cleaners, or cotton swabs to clean visibly dirty nectar ports. Adding a few rice grains or course salt and lemon juice can also be useful scrubbing agents for hard to reach places. Make sure you rinse everything thoroughly. How often you change the nectar depends on the weather.
Temperatures in the 70s = once per week.
Temperature in the 80s = every 3-4 days.
Temperatures in the 90s = every 1-2 days.
At least once a month soak the feeder in full-strength white distilled vinegar and clean with a bottle brush. Rinse well with warm running water. Evidence suggests that using bleach to clean plastics containing polycarbonates (like those found in some feeders) can accelerate the leeching of bisphenol A (BPAs). It's not yet known if this is harmful to birds, but it's better to be safe than sorry and avoid using bleach.
Wood Feeders
It's common for wooden feeders to weather and fade over the years. It is not necessary to treat wood feeders with products; however, if you wish to maintain the appearance of your feeder, you can follow these simple directions.
Redwood or Cedar Feeders:
Feeders made from these materials are ideal for outside use because of their natural resistance to weathering. Under normal conditions, these woods require very little maintenance, however, they will gradually fade in color as they age. If you want to maintain the original color of the wood, give it a coat of non-toxic wood sealer or linseed oil every few years. Make sure you apply it to the outside area of the feeder only and not to the eating surface of the bird feeders. There are a wide variety of soy-based non-toxic wood sealers currently on the market. If you can't find one locally, check out Green Builder's Supply on the web.
Pine Feeders:
Pine feeders also weather nicely, but will fade with time. Again, apply a non-toxic wood sealer or linseed oil as needed. If your feeder needs repainting, remove any loose paint flakes and sand the birdfeeder lightly. Repaint with an eco-friendly paint rated for outdoor use. Make sure the paint you use does not contain lead, zinc, or chromate.
As with all wooden feeders, inspect them for protruding nails and sharp points or edges each time you fill them with seed. Small cuts and scratches on feet and toes can quickly lead to infections.
Copper Feeders
Copper is highly resistant to corrosion, and if not preserved, acquires a beautiful green patina over time. Copper cleaners are considered toxic to birds, so if you want to restore the copper to its original luster, try one of these non-toxic recipes:
Non-Toxic Copper Cleaner:
Mix 2 tablespoons salt, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Rub with sponge and allow to dry. Rinse with hot water and dry with a soft cloth. Or, apply a paste of lemon juice and cream of tartar and leave on for 5 minutes. Wash in warm water and dry with a soft cloth.
Keeping Feeders Clean
Cleaning your bird feeders regularly year round is important for the health of the birds.All you really need is a pair of rubber gloves, hot water, scent-free liquid dish soap, a scrub brush, and some white distilled vinegar. Fill a sink or tub with hot soapy water and let the feeder soak in it for 10 or 15 minutes to loosen up any caked-on debris. After soaking, give the feeder a good scrubbing, then rinse well and let it air dry. For tough jobs, refill with clean water and 4 cups of vinegar. Let the feeder soak for 1 hour. Rinse thoroughly and let it air dry.
Hummingbird Feeders:
Because hummingbird feeders are filled with a sugar solution, they need to be cleaned more frequently than other types of feeders. This chore is much easier if you start out with a feeder that has parts that are easy to disassemble and clean (stick it in the dishwasher!). Every time you refill your feeder with nectar, wash it out with hot water (no soap). Use small bottle brushes, toothbrushes, pipe cleaners, or cotton swabs to clean visibly dirty nectar ports. Adding a few rice grains or course salt and lemon juice can also be useful scrubbing agents for hard to reach places. Make sure you rinse everything thoroughly. How often you change the nectar depends on the weather.
Temperatures in the 70s = once per week.
Temperature in the 80s = every 3-4 days.
Temperatures in the 90s = every 1-2 days.
At least once a month soak the feeder in full-strength white distilled vinegar and clean with a bottle brush. Rinse well with warm running water. Evidence suggests that using bleach to clean plastics containing polycarbonates (like those found in some feeders) can accelerate the leeching of bisphenol A (BPAs). It's not yet known if this is harmful to birds, but it's better to be safe than sorry and avoid using bleach.
Lavendar Fresh
Growing Requirements :
As with most plants, your success in growing this coveted plant will depend both on what kind of growing conditions you can provide and which varieties you select to grow. Lavender plants will tolerate many growing conditions, but it thrives in warm, well-drained soil and full sun. Like many plants grown for their essential oils, a lean soil will encourage a higher concentration of oils. An alkaline and especially chalky soil will enhance lavenders fragrance. While you can grow lavender in Zone 5, it is unlikely you will ever have a lavender hedge. More realistically you can expect to have plants that will do well when the weather cooperates and to experience the occasional loss of a plant or two after a severe winter or a wet, humid summer.
Lavender is a tough plant and is extremely drought resistant, once established. However, when first starting you lavender plants, don't be afraid to give them a handful of compost in the planting hole and to keep them regularly watered during their first growing season.
Special Considerations
It is dampness, more than cold, that is responsible for killing lavender plants. Dampness can come in the form of wet roots during the winter months or high humidity in the summer. If humidity is a problem, make sure you have plenty of space between your plants for air flow and always plant in a sunny location. Areas where the ground routinely freezes and thaws throughout the winter will benefit from a layer of mulch applied after the ground initially freezes. Also protect your lavender plants from harsh winter winds. Planting next to a stone or brick wall will provide additional heat and protection.
Pruning
Although lavender plants get regularly pruned simply by harvesting the flowers, to keep them well shaped and to encourage new growth, a bit of spring pruning is in order. The taller varieties can be cut back by approximately one-third their height. Lower growing varieties can either be pruned back by a couple of inches or cut down to new growth. If you live in an area where lavender suffers some winter die-back, don't even think about pruning your plants until you see some new green growth at the base of the plant. If you disturb the plants too soon in the season, they give up trying.
Containers
You can always grow your lavender in pots and move it to follow the sun or even bring it indoors for the winter. Keep in mind that although lavender has a large, spreading root system, it prefers growing in a tight spot. A pot that can accommodate the rootball with a couple of inches to spare would be a good choice. Too large a pot will only encourage excessive dampness.
Insure that the pot has plenty of drainage. To prevent water pooling in the pot, place about an inch of loose gravel at the bottom. Rot root is one of the few problems experienced by lavender plants. Use a loose, soilless mix for planting and remember that container grown lavender will require more water than garden grown plants. How much more depends on the environment and the type of pot. Water when the soil, not the plant, appears dry and water at the base of the plant to limit dampness on the foliage. Compact varieties make the best choices for containers. Some to try are L. angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’ and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas subsp. pedunculata)
Planting Lanvedar
Growing in Containers
How to Make Eye Pillow
This is what I used.
Silk scarf or piece of silk 5 inches by 20 inches or 10 by 10 inches.
1 cup of flaxseed
1/2 cup of lavender buds.
To make
Fold silk with right sides together so it is about 5 by 10 inches
Stitch the silk together leaving a small opening at the end.
Turn silk right side out.
Mix flaxseed and lavender buds.
Fill the silk with the lavender flaxseed mixture.
Sew closed.
Option
Make a slighter larger sleeve of silk for a cover for your pillow. This can be left open on one end so it is easy to remove the sleeve for washing. Add a few drops of lavender to refresh scent as needed. Squeezing the pillow will also help release the wonderful scent.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Potpourri # 1 This is a light sweet fresh scent.
Mix and set aside
1 1/2 tablespoons orris root
2 drops of peppermint essential oil
6 drops of lavender essential oil
2 cups lavender leaves
1/2 cup peppermint leaves
2 cups lavender buds
2 cups rose buds and rose petals
Mix all ingredients or layer as desired in a dish or glass bowl. Sprinkle a few rose buds on top if desired. Cover and let oils infiltrate the flowers for about 2 to 4 weeks.
Potpourri # 2 This is nice and spicy, it reminds me of Christmas.
1 cup lavender leaves
1/2 cup peppermint leaves
2 cups dried flowers, (any kind)
1 cup lavender buds
Mix together
10 whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 tablespoon of orris root
5 drops of lavender essential oil
4 drops of sweet orange essential oil
4 drops of cinnamon essential oil
2 drops of clove essential oil
Add all ingredients and store in a closed container for a couple of weeks to absorb the scent.
Potpourri # 3 This is a simple lavender recipe.
2 1/2 cups of lavender buds
1 cup of rose buds or rose petals
4 drops of lavender essential oil
Potpourri isn't a science. Put in what ever kinds of plant material you have on hand. Orange peels, cedar chips, pine cones, and spices. Play with it and add any spices you like or any combination of oils that are pleasing to you. Just have fun!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Lavender Bath Salt
This bath salt recipe is is a simple one.
2 ounces or 4 tablespoons of salt
18 drops of lavender essential oil
mix and store in a jar or bottle,
Add 1 or 2 tablespoons to your bath water. Soak and enjoy this relaxing bath.
Lavender Orange bath salt
2 ounces or 4 tablespoons of sea salt.
10 drops of lavender oil.
8 drops of bergamot or sweet orange oil.
Mix and bottle.
Use 1 or 2 tablespoons per bath.
This lavender bath salt recipe shouldn't be used in the summer or if you're using a tanning booth. This can cause photosensitivity for about 24 hours. I love this scent in the winter months. This recipe is very uplifting for the spirit.
Immunity booster bath salt
This is a good recipe for when you feel like you're coming down with something.
2 ounces or 4 tablespoons of salt
8 drops lavender
8 drops tea tree oil
2 drops lemon myrtle
Mix and bottle.
Use 2 tablespoons per bath. Then go to bed and try to get some rest.
Baking and cooking with Lavendar
Joys of Lavendar
Everything Lavendar
Lanvedar Craft Recipes
Butterflies
Tutorial Found HERE
Butteryfly rearing
How to Make a Butterfly House:
What You'll Need:
•Hand saw
•Pine lumber (6"x1/2"x7')
•Scrap of pine (8" wide)
•Hammer
•Nails
•Pieces of tree bark or floral moss
Step 1: Cut pine boards to the following dimensions:
Two sides: 6"x18" (Cut the top at an angle so that one side is 18 inches long and the other side is 17 inches long.)
One back: 4-1/2"x18"
One front: 4-1/2"x17"
One bottom: 4-1/2"x6"
One top: 7"x7"
Step 2: Cut three 12-inch long slits in the front. Make the slits one inch wide, with one several inches higher than the other two. (See illustration above.) Nail the bark or moss to the back piece to give the butterflies something to cling to.
Step 3: Lay the back down, bark side up, and stand one of the side pieces up against it with the longer sides in back. Hold and nail in place. Do the same with the other side.
Step 4: Put the front in between the two side pieces and nail in place. Nail on the bottom and the top. Mount the house on a post in the shade.
Thinking about the Birds Think Gourds:
Crafts and Growing For you and the Birds
Gorgeous Autumn Gourds
Sunflower gourds
Lively Gourd
Snowman and Santa gourd
How to Grow Gourds
Gourd Tips & Information
Birdhouse Gourds/pdf
Gourds
Grow a Gourd Birdhouse
Far North Gourd Growing Info
http://www.lake-butler.com/pbgourds.htm
http://www.justgourds.com/
http://www.geocities.com/tgs_southeast/Documents/GrowingGourds.html
http://www.craftybirds.com/gourdbirdhouse.html
http://home.att.net/~DLeddy/freepattern.html
http://www.thegourdpeddlers.com/
http://www.turtlefeathers.com/
http://www.geocities.com/tgs_southeast/Documents/GrowingGourds.html
sign up for her free newsletter.
artist
http://www.valkyrie.net/~rehmje/tutorials/lamp.html
Gorgeous Autumn Gourds
Sunflower gourds
Lively Gourd
Snowman and Santa gourd
How to Grow Gourds
Gourd Tips & Information
Birdhouse Gourds/pdf
Gourds
Grow a Gourd Birdhouse
Far North Gourd Growing Info
http://www.lake-butler.com/pbgourds.htm
http://www.justgourds.com/
http://www.geocities.com/tgs_southeast/Documents/GrowingGourds.html
http://www.craftybirds.com/gourdbirdhouse.html
http://home.att.net/~DLeddy/freepattern.html
http://www.thegourdpeddlers.com/
http://www.turtlefeathers.com/
http://www.geocities.com/tgs_southeast/Documents/GrowingGourds.html
sign up for her free newsletter.
artist
http://www.valkyrie.net/~rehmje/tutorials/lamp.html
Glass Garden Totem Lights
I have the pattern figured out but have not glued or staked.
What I really would like is to figure out how to put lights inside where I can change the light bulb.
I will post again when finished.
Look for pieces that will stack well together and have a flat gluing surface on the bottoms.
This will help prevent water and air from getting inside once they are glued together and
it will help the totems look level when you have a flat gluing surface to work with.
step 2
Preparing the glass pieces
Clean all glass well with warm soapy water and make sure they are thoroughly dry
and lint free before gluing. I used a microfiber cloth to "polish" the glass before gluing.
You can use denture cleaning tabs for hard to clean vases (1-4 tabs per vase usually works).
step 3
Gluing
Use a clear silicone glue or Lexel for best results.
Make sure the adhesive you use is weather resistant.
Glue up pieces in sections, letting each section cure before putting them all together as one piece.
Try gluing the pieces during low humidity to reduce condensation.
step 4
Displaying your totems
You can make free standing totems or use an upside down vase glued to the bottom
to mount them on poles. Copper is a popular choices, but with prices being so high
these days, I use PVC conduit pipe (the gray stuff in the home improvement stores).
You can paint it using a spray paint specifically for plastics to give it the look of copper or
any other color you may like. R…
step 5
Displaying them in your garden
They really sparkle in the sun and look great in the garden. The options are endless.
What I really would like is to figure out how to put lights inside where I can change the light bulb.
I will post again when finished.
How to make
step 1
Collecting your glass piecesLook for pieces that will stack well together and have a flat gluing surface on the bottoms.
This will help prevent water and air from getting inside once they are glued together and
it will help the totems look level when you have a flat gluing surface to work with.
step 2
Preparing the glass pieces
Clean all glass well with warm soapy water and make sure they are thoroughly dry
and lint free before gluing. I used a microfiber cloth to "polish" the glass before gluing.
You can use denture cleaning tabs for hard to clean vases (1-4 tabs per vase usually works).
step 3
Gluing
Use a clear silicone glue or Lexel for best results.
Make sure the adhesive you use is weather resistant.
Glue up pieces in sections, letting each section cure before putting them all together as one piece.
Try gluing the pieces during low humidity to reduce condensation.
step 4
Displaying your totems
You can make free standing totems or use an upside down vase glued to the bottom
to mount them on poles. Copper is a popular choices, but with prices being so high
these days, I use PVC conduit pipe (the gray stuff in the home improvement stores).
You can paint it using a spray paint specifically for plastics to give it the look of copper or
any other color you may like. R…
step 5
Displaying them in your garden
They really sparkle in the sun and look great in the garden. The options are endless.
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