These beautiful chocolate creations were made using watty Puttyby donna in NC.
Her blog site is
She has some very fun faux items for sale on her site.
Below are the doirections for general water putty bunnies.
General Directions for Water Putty Rabbits
This beautiful faux-chocolate bunny.
Tools and Materials
Easter bunny chocolate molds
Binder clips
Clothespins
Scissors
Bucket
Bamboo skewer or other long, slender stick
File, sandpaper, and/or Dremel tool with a sanding attachment
Durham's water putty
Drill with paint mixer attachment, or paint mixing stick
White primer paint
Brown paint (Martha used liquid acrylic -- a mix of burnt sienna, burnt umber, and white)
Clear satin topcoat
Paint in a variety of colors for details
Ribbon and flowers for embellishing
Faux Chocolate Bunnies How-To
1. Clip the two halves of the mold together with binder clips. Cut the bottom out of the mold, if necessary, to allow pouring of putty mixture.
2. Set the mold upside down in a bucket to keep it upright; clip the mold to the side of the bucket with clothespins to hold it steady.
3. Mix 3 parts Durham's water putty powder to 1 part water. Add putty slowly, in 3 stages. Mix until the putty is the consistency of pancake batter or a little thicker.
4. Pour putty slowly into mold.
5. Use a bamboo skewer to ease putty into all nooks and crannies and eliminate bubbles.
6. Allow to set for 2 to 3 hours.
7. Remove binder clips and open molds to release bunny.
8. Smooth seams using a file, sandpaper, or a Dremel tool with a sanding attachment. Fill in any bubble holes with more putty.
9. Prime with white primer, allow to dry, and paint with brown paint. Apply a clear satin topcoat to the painted bunny for sheen.
10. Paint eyes and other details, and add embellishments like ribbons and flowers, if desired.
Resins:
Polyester Resin: is a liquid plastic that hardens when a few drops of the catalyst are added to create a chemical reaction. Polyester Resin is durable and is the resin of choice for industrial applications and serious crafters who are experienced in resin casting. This resin is highly toxic and should be used in a well ventilated area using protective masks to avoid inhalation. One main advantage of Polyester Resin is the depth in which it can be poured for larger embed projects. Polyester Resin is cheaper to buy than Epoxy resin as it is generally purchased in larger quantities such as 1lt + tins.
Epoxy Resin: These resins are more frequently used in the crafting and hobby world, they are easy to use with a low toxicity, making them suitable for ventilated craft rooms and work areas. Epoxy resin is perfect for jewelry casting as it has a shallow setting depth, so it will cure quickly when used correctly.
Epoxy resins come in two parts: resin and hardener. The two parts must be mixed in the precise ratio given in the manufacturer's instructions. Imprecise measuring and mixing prevents the epoxy resin from solidifying or curing. Epoxy resin is also self leveling, giving your project a glass like finish without too much technique. More expensive than the polyester resin but a great way to get started for a small batch of projects.
Always handle resins with care, and follow the proper use that is recommended by the manufacturer.
Pigments and Dyes: These come in liquids, powders and pastes . You will need to purchase color dyes that are suitable for your brand of resin. Dye's are added during the mixing process.
Molds:
Dimensional Molds: These are molds that create a 3D object, such as a heart shaped pendant, bangle or coaster etc. Latex and Plastic Molds can be purchased for resin casting or you can make your own molds, or use items you have around the home.
Latex molds: These are great to use as the flexibility of them means you can literally POP out your resin cast. You may need to experiment with your resin as some resins require a little extra hardener to cure in a latex mold due to the fact that the temperature of the resin is effected because of the latex.
Plastic molds: You can use store bought chocolate molds, specific pendant molds or other similar molds. again these are great to use due to the flexibility.
Home molds: Ice cube trays work well for pendants, chocolate box inlays are a great source of small rounded molds. You can use any durable (heat proof) plastic item you find in your home. You can also use inflexible molds that can be cut or broken away from the casting, such as a glass jar or plastic lunch container.
Mold Release: If you are using a flexible mold there really is not need to add a mold release agent. However a perfect inexpensive release agent is spray cooking oil. Simply give your mold a quick spray and wipe over and it's ready to use.
Flat Objects: You can also pour your resin over flat objects such as scrabble pieces, decorated coasters, trays and flat jewelry pieces.
How to mix: Your resin will come with it's very own set of instructions which you should follow strictly. Basically you will measure the two parts (as per the instructions provided on your product) together and then pour into your mold.
For mixing and measuring use baking spoons and measuring jugs as these will give you an accurate measurement. Wipe out your measuring tools after each use, making sure you have separate tools for the resin and hardener parts.
Plastic disposable bowls, spoons or cups work well as you can discard them after each use. Do not over mix or your resin will be filled with air bubbles. Let your resin rest for a few moments before pouring to avoid extra air.
Air Bubbles: Can be gently tapped out or use a straw and your warm breath to blow over the bubble, this disperses the soft resin and releases the air trapped underneath the surface. Larger projects use a warm setting on your hair dryer or embossing gun.
Embedding items: You can embed all sorts of items to make your resin exciting, from plastic toys to coins, dried foliage and even cake sprinkles.
Photos and Images: Photos and images can easily be embedded into your resin, it is advised to coat your image and photo with a sealer first to prevent the ink dyes from running in your resin. Using white clear drying craft glue is one way to seal your image, you can also use a spray varnish or other archival sealer. Make sure it is completely dried before pouring.
Cleanup: If you have spilled your image, use a acetone cleaner, such as nail varnish remover or a methylated spirits before it cures. Cured resin can be chipped away with knifes or chisels. The easiest way to clean up resin is not to spill it in the first place.
